FootprintsofFaith

A Final Tour Post on the Oberammergau Passion Play

August 20, 2010

 

Since 1634, the residents of Oberammergau have staged 41 Passion Plays using 2000 residents doing just over 100 performances every ten years. When they prayed to God to save their city from the plague of 1632, they said if God did that they would stage a Passion Play every ten years. Many of the city residents were able to survive and they have honored that commitment.

 

For many of us, this passion play has been on our bucket list for years, and today was the day we got to experience this gift from God and his special committed community.

 

The tour is for the first time split up into different smaller hotels. Our bus went to Garmisch-Partenkirchen, the host of the 1936 Winter Olympic Games and the 1978 World Skiing Championships. From the city, you can see Germany’s highest peak, Zugspitzblatt. The beautiful sunny day allowed us to see the Alps. You just feel like singing “How Great Thou Art” just walking outside.

 

We stayed at the Best Western Hotel in Oberammergau. How is that for exotic? It was very nice. The rustic feel, the stream running beside the hotel, the good food, and the very small elevator is what I will remember the most. We took every opportunity we could to see the town known for its murals and traditional homes. Of course behind every home was a gorgeous mountain or valley.

 

We must say that God has blessed us on this journey. Every time it was raining, it would rain on the bus to the location and clear up for our tour. It was like God put an umbrella over our trip. We had a sunny day at the beginning in Berlin and ended with sunny days in Oberammergau for the Passion Play and the trip back home.

 

What can you say about the amazing Oberammergau Passion Play? The efficiency of the arrival, the serving of meals on a schedule and the seating in the theater are unmatched. Now the line for the women’s bathroom and the comfort of the seats was another story. Like 4,700 sardines stuck in a can…and add a little heat from a warm day…oh my, I shall not wear that shirt again. The first two hours and forty minutes was hot, but the magnificence of the staging made it well worth the sitting.

 

The play itself unfolds in front of you on an expansive and slightly elevated open air stage. Everything from camels, donkeys, lambs and 2,000 different citizen actors graced the stage. They projected without microphones. Whenever Jesus was on the stage, his assertive yet stabilizing presence brought calm to the otherwise hectic world of the passion play. They wove together narrative and choral interludes to transition between the acts. They were punctuated by living images of Old Testament scenes designed to give depth to the impact of Christ’s life, death and resurrection. From Adam and Eve to Daniel in the lion’s den, from Abraham’s near sacrifice of Issac to Moses and the parting of the sea and the Ten Commandments—each brought a new insight couples with narrative and song as you read along in the English translation of the German dialogue.

 

We were struck by the balance of the hatred of religious leaders for the message of Christ’s Gospel of repentance, faith and service and the strength and passion of his followers. Just as there were those calling for Christ’s crucifixion, there were others who were claiming his innocence and asking for him to be spared. All in all, they captured beautifully the energy, chaos and radical transformation of Christ’s coming. You were left with a clear message of the cost Christ bore for each of our sins. The narrative literally confronts the audience to see and contemplate that cost in their own lives.

 

With two hours for intermission, we had time for a walk to a dinner location in Oberammergau. They got us and out in less than 30 minutes. There was time for shopping in the numerous wood carving shops. Many who had not already, took time to buy and ship home a cuckoo clock. Lorie and I remained cuckooless!

 

Rosi helped us coordinate with the Lutheran Church in the area to attend their half-hour devotion service and communion. We invited others on our bus for the moving experience. Pastor Craig participated in the communion and all attending communed together. It was the second time we had Holy Communion on the tour. Both were moving. The passion play finished at 11:00 pm. We went as a group to our bus quickly and joined the steady stream of buses down the hill and back to our hotel. By the time we got back, many on the bus had only three hours to sleep before the bus would take them to the Munich Airport. Only Kathy Rogers joined an early group at 5:45 am. The rest of us slept in to take the train back to Munich the next day.

 

With the late finish, there was little time for closure on the tour. We once again thanked Rosi and Hans the driver. Our group huddled together outside the hotel for one last prayer as we knew all had different paths to take on their way home. Dan and Darlene were heading on to Rome for a week in Italy. Karen was heading to Northern Germany to visit friends. George still had some business contacts to make. The rest were taking at least an extra day before heading back from Munich or Frankfurt.

 

The tour was exceptional, and God is even greater in providing this a deepening appreciation for our Lutheran traditions and for the power of the Holy Spirit to intervene in history to work God’s will. We return confirmed in God’s power and an appreciation for our calling in this our age. May you some day have the same opportunity.

 

August 21, 2010

 

We were up at 6:30, earlier than we needed to, but we were rested with a sound sleep in our room next to the rolling mountain stream. While Lorie packed, I elected for an early breakfast and a quick walk downtown in the early morning air. I was able to take in more of the town, take pictures, and enjoy one final walk.

 

We said goodbye to Dan, Darlene and George, and took our taxies to the train station. The Bullocks, Beekers, Karen, and the Paulsons all took over the train for the hour and a half trip to Munich. It was scenic as every ride is through the Alps. We will have our goodbyes in the Munich Central Station as we all go in separate directions. We grab the 11:57 to Frankfort for one final evening in Germany. Good news—we all caught our respective trains!

A Munich Beer Garden Party

Well, the path of Luther ended in Augsburg. We have touched his path since we left Berlin and have had to piece it together out of sequence. But now, we are off to Munich for a day without Luther in a great German City, and then to Oberammergau.

 

For others who have seen the Passion Play there, this is the first year that they end the play at night. It starts at 2:00 pm and ends at 11:00 pm. It is felt that this helps the 2000 citizens involved in the play to do work in the morning and allows the closing scene to be done dramatically in the night. We have heard from people attending this year and been before that it is very moving this way. We are eager to see it. 

 

The bus stopped for a 25 minute photo walk around Schloss Nympheburg, the summer palace constructed for Electress Henriette-Adelaide for giving her husband a male heir. The rest of you women should not get any ideas. This summer palace could house thousands in its rooms and grounds. Land in Munich must have have been cheaper than in LA. We had but minutes to walk around, see the swans and find angles to try to get a picture that captured even a portion of what the scene required. No nymphs were spotted, but sculptures made up for it.

 

The day in Munich was a day with more free time, a brief bus tour of the city, shopping in city center, eating in the Farmers’ Market Square (Viktuallienmarkt), and some time in two of the biggest city churches. With a busy few days on the Path of Luther and Oberammergau coming up tomorrow, we needed an easier day.

 

We saw both Michaelskirche (St. Michaels Cathedral) and Theatinerkirche (St. Cajetan). Although the exterior was under repair, the inside was awe inspiring. It is said to be the second biggest cathedral in Europe, second only to Rome’s St. Peters. Cardinal Cajetan for whom the cathedral was named is the same man who was sent by the Pope to get Luther to recant in Augsburg. Guess that encounter did not hurt him in the eyes of the largely Catholic southern Germany.

 

Tonight we go for dinner in Munich at the Hofbrauhaus in their a Beer Garden. Look out. Here the Lutherans come. OK, we are not a late night crowd and should be in our rooms by 9:30. Lorie is worried that I might ask her to polka if it is possible. I’m ready.

 

But we must save our energy. Tomorrow is the six hour passion play in Oberammergau. We must be ready.

Our Path of Luther Ends in Augsburg

We’re on our way to Dinkelsbuehl for a lunch stop as we pick up our Luther tour in Augsburg. There was time for some eating, shopping and visiting local churches. Many from our group found an exceptional wood carving store where the work of Holzschnitzerei Buckl is sold. His mostly religious carvings highlight Catholic saints, Christ, crosses and nativities. We bought a cross with a carved vine and leaves—“I am the living vine and you are the branches.” We also bought a small nativity with Joseph, Mary and small baby Jesus that fits in Mary’s lap to complete the scene. We fell in love with them both. You can see samples and order from his website at www.rosa-buckl.de, and you will find many fine works to choose from.

 

Unfortunately, Anna, one of the older members of our tour, fell in the street. She already was using a walker. We fear that she may have broken her leg, but it turned out that it was her hip. The ambulance came to take her to the local hospital. Her husband Carl and her bus followed to find out the extent of her injuries. She had surgery that night and was in recovery when we went to bed. Pastor led us on a prayer for healing for Anna. We hope to hear more as we continue on the trip. I shared information on Medjet to Carl so that he might check out how to get Anna home if needed. If you travel a lot, look into Medjet as it is an inexpensive insurance to fly you home on a medical jet with full care for free if you are injured away from home. Lorie and I have the coverage.

 

There was also time for lightness. During a long local traffic jam, Rosey had a few stories to share. When a US traveler asked a Swiss train conductor where the “restroom” was? He, thinking that they were asking for a restaurant said that there was not one on this train but that they would drive a cart up the aisle many times. They all laughed. Another Swiss hostess was asked about where the “restroom” was, and she replied, “You can sit and rest anywhere.”  

 

Augsburg was a metropolis during Roman times and famous for old trade dynasties during the Middle Ages. Luther visited twice, first on his trip to Rome 1510-1511 that soured him on the church’s use of indulgences and relics. While in Augsburg, he stayed with the Augustinian lay-friars in the Church of the Holy Cross.

 

His second visit was in 1518 when he was called by the emperor to recant his 95 Theses and other writings. It was in the Fugger villa where he was expected to revoke his teachings. Luther stayed for his half-month stay at the Carmelite Friary next to the Church of St. Anne.

 

It was a frustrating trip for Luther. He was expecting a discussion, but at his three meetings with the Legate Cardinal Cajetan, Cajetan kept interrupting his statements by saying that all that was necessary was to recant and nothing more. After the third meeting, he left secretly by night to make his way back to Wittenberg. He said of his interrogator, that he was no more likely to understand his arguments than a donkey is to play a harp.

 

We saw the St. Ann’s Church where Martin Luther took refuge while dealing with Cardinal Cajetan. There is now a street there named after Luther, and St. Anne Church is reportedly the oldest Lutheran Church. It was under repair at the time of the visit, but it was still a joy to see.

 

Our guide also showed us the Fuggerei founded by Jakob Fugger in 1521 as a home for needy Catholics who through no fault of their own had fallen into poverty. The cost even today is 85 cents a year for those over fifty citizens who are in need. The units have been updated but the cost remains nominal. The only cost, besides utilities, is the promise to account for a certain number of hours of prayer daily for the founders. The Fuggers were Catholics who at the time believed in purgatory and sold indulgences. They felt that the prayers of all the needy would help them minimize their time there. Described as the richest man of his time, Jakob certain put some of his money to work.

 

We also saw the magnificent Golden Hall in the City Hall. Bombed in World War II, the city has renovated the hall to match the original built between 1615-20 by Elias Holl. It is one of Germany’s finest examples of Mannerist architecture and is used for city events and concerts. So we went from welfare through the ages to opulence on one walk.

 

We are now in our room at the Dornt Hotel in Augsburg. It is said to be modeled after the Marina Towers Hotel in Chicago. It is very nice. This tour has been very well organized with fine meals and hotels throughout. It’s again time for eating, devotion and maybe a little resting on our balcony.

The Diet of Worms Had Nothing to Do with Losing Weight

Our Luther quote for the day has to be, “I cannot and will not recant anything, for to go against conscience is neither right nor safe. Here I stand. I can do no other, so help me God. Amen.” Luther said that statement in Worms, Germany.

 

We weathered a rainstorm and the Frankfurt traffic for an hour on the way across the Rhine to Worms. As we got off the bus, the rains stopped and the tour begin. They say in Germany that when angels tour the weather cooperates. Now, our tour guide Rosey said that, yes, when angels tour, they are often little devils on the bus. Of course that did not apply to us….except the angel part.

 

Now, last night we held our devotions in the hotel bar…to the dismay of the bartender. After all, when your patrons are praying in the bar, it tends to do something to the drinkers…they leave. But I must confess, all have agreed that the devotions as a small group have been a special blessing and a way to grow in our faith and as a family.

 

The bus trip gave us a chance to sing happy birthday in English and German to Joe Bulock! People think that all Westlake Lutherans were born in August—Craig, Kristine, Joe… Hey, we like to celebrate.

 

We started our tour outside the St. Peter Cathedral (Dom St. Peter) in Worms. Luther never was able to enter because when he visited he was on the verge of being labeled a heretic. He was made to come to the Diet of Worms in 1521, and Luther was asked to recant of all his works in front of the Emperor Charles V. The Bishop Court or Emperor Palace is no longer there, but there is a plate we saw where Luther was to have said his famous “Here I stand” statement and refused to recant.

 

Frederick the Wise was wise enough to remind the emperor that Luther was very popular with the people, and it would be wise to let him have a day to get out of the area and then release the edict condemning him and those who protect him. That way someone else would have to capture or kill Luther.

 

It is on the road away from Worms that Luther was kidnapped and taken into hiding at Wartburg Castle. There was very little else to see in Worms directly related to Luther’s life. We saw the Cathedral that is the only Catholic church to have a stained glass frame in a window honoring Luther and his stand on the authority of Scripture. Today, this is no longer a cathedral because it is a church that combines both catholic and protestant members. Now, that is bridging a divide!

 

We also saw the Reformation Memorial in Worms that has the largest statue of Luther. It was done in the 19^th century (1868) from contributions from around the world. Much was given from Scandinavia and the US. Although the statue of Luther is at the center and dominates the memorial, it is really a tribute to the entire Reformation. The memorial captures images of Luther, Knox, Frederick the Wise, Hus, Melanchthon, and many others. The cities that are important to the movement are also honored.  

 

We left Worms for Heidelberg to see the Heidelberg Castle and a plaque which honors the Augustinian Monastery where Luther came to debate his 95 Theses in April of 518. The monastery no longer stands, but the debate was still important in the emerging drama around Luther. Luther thought he would not be received well, but he found many in agreement and even those who disagreed warmly debated him. To the public, he was like a rock star, and many came from miles away to see Luther. He was not to return, but many of the future reformers were impacted by the debate they saw in this city.

 

It is however a very beautiful city and the ruins of the castle were enjoyable to see. We found it interesting as the guide talked about keeping them ruins because it is more romantic. Yes, artists like to paint and do poetry about ruins not restored buildings. So, the current scaffolding at the ruins were not to return it to its original grandeur but to restore the ruins. Only artists would call this a mission worthy of work.

 

What was memorable was the gigantic wine barrel in the castle that apparently even Thomas Jefferson was impressed with. He had taken measurements of the barrel when he visited the castle while serving as a diplomat to France. I didn’t take measurements; it was too big to even capture on camera. I settled for a drink of wine!

 

We had time for shopping. The biggest purchase was done by Karen—a very large white German cuckoo clock. She had been waiting for the opportunity to find the right one. Now, we settled for a small Christmas ornament and were very happy.

 

It’s another night of eating, devotions, sleep and maybe even a walk downtown. Dan Daigle was hoping to go to the Cave—a jazz joint in town. Now, if only he had is sax! Enough for today!

Luther’s Dearest Eisenach and Wartburg Castle

Here is a Martin Luther quote for the day: "We are not made righteous by doing righteous deeds, but when we have been made righteous, we do righteous deeds." Oh how he lived that and challenge us to do the same.

 

It was off from Erfurt to Eisenach. Now, if you are like me, I have no German background, and these names are a little hard to get used to. Thankfully, I can check the spelling, and you probably won’t know if I am wrong. Ah, but I waste time.

 

Eisenach has two important roles in Martin Luther’s life. As an older child and young teenager, he attended Latin school in this city. His family expected that Martin could stay with family while there, but that was not to come to pass. As a result, Martin had to earn his lodging by joining a traveling boys coral group that would sing throughout the city wherever they could perform and people would play. Often that would entail singing for wealthy citizens outside their homes.

 

One particular benefactor was so taken by this bright young student with the wonderful voice that she welcomed into her home to stay for free. This was a wonderful time in his life, and this was one of the reasons that later in his life he would call this place “his dear Eisenach.” This time certainly contributed to his love of music and his skill that he would use to compose hymns later in life.

 

We spent the morning looking at the Luther House and the museum associated with the home where the benefactor had invited Luther to live. We saw what would have been his room and saw exhibits highlighting his role in transforming education for young boys and girls. That later led to women studying to become pastors in the Lutheran church. We saw pages from a Gutenberg Bible and a New Testament that Luther had written from hand.

 

We visited the St. George Church where Johann Sebastian Bach had been baptized and Luther had attended as a young teen and preached as a later reformer and priest. Some from our group remained in the church to hear a morning organ concert. For others, there was time to walk the marketplace or to visit Bach’s early home and the added museum. Those who did were able to hear samples of his music and see and hear ancient instruments that were played in Luther’s time.

 

Of course, Luther would later leave here to study law and receive his call to become a monk and study theology in Wittenberg. Interestingly, Fredrick the Wise also controlled the area in Eisenach. In fact, it was years later, after the Diet of Worms where Luther refused to recant and the emperor branded him a heretic that again Luther returned. On the way back to Wittenberg, Frederick arranged to have Luther kidnapped and taken to the seldom used Wartburg Castle in Eisenach.

 

People did not know he was there, assuming that he had been taken and possibly killed as a result of the emperor’s actions. There were as few as three people living in the seldom used castle, but Luther remained busy.

 

The castle has been renovated since and is quite impressive. It was steep hike up to the castle from our bus. One man counted over 800 steps. I believe it. You’d be proud of Pastor Craig and Kristine; they led the way. Some rode a van a bit closer to the castle entrance, but it was understandable, as we needed to save strength for the tour through the castle and the many steps there. There is no question that the walking and cobble streets added a strain on those not use to it.  

 

We saw the impressive Festival Hall on the top floor where to this day they do special concerts and local graduations. We saw the room dedicated to St. Elizabeth who, in her short life, transformed her position as a princess into a platform to serve the poor and build hospitals for those less fortunate. There were some 99 documented miracles involving Elizabeth. When her husband died, she left her children with the family in the castle and went into service to God in the few years before she died. As a result, she was canonized and honored by many in the area.

 

Being on a Path of Luther Tour, we took time to see the small room, Luther’s tube, where he lived in hiding for ten months. It is during this time that Luther translated the Bible from the original Greek into German in eleven weeks. That translation was to fuel the Reformation and become the formal tool for transmitting a common German language for the next 400 years. God used Luther at the right time and in the right place to bless a religious and secular transformation. 

 

What comes up has to come down, so we returned down the 800 steps to the bus. It went much easier going down, but time will tell which muscles will be sore tomorrow. We took off on a 170 kilometer trip to Frankfurt for our next hotel. We were ready for a restful night of devotions, eating….and sleep!

Worshipping Where Luther Was Born

We got to sleep in an extra hour on Sunday, the day of rest. But let’s not get carried away. This was a day to visit Eisleben, the city of Luther’s birth and death. Yes, he was born on November 10, 1483 and baptized the next day in this small German town’s St. Andrews Church.

The practice of baptism was done as close as possible to birth to avoid possession by the devil. With only 2/3 of children surviving the first year, parents tried to have them baptized quickly to avoid the cost of original sin. After reading about what was entailed in baptism, it was amazing any even survived being baptized. Even in the cold of winter the baptism started outside of the church with the priest doing a type of exorcism, blowing three times on the babe’s eyes, makes the sign of the cross on the child’s forehead and breast, placed consecrated salt on his tongue and a combination of saliva and dirt up his noise and ears. Once in the church the child was fully immersed in water. I get the feeling by now they would be thinking that being born was not such a great idea. We are glad Luther survived.

It was clear that Luther who valued the authority of the Scripture defended the tradition of infant baptism though it is not mentioned in Scripture. He did get rid of some of the more bizarre aspects of sacrament that had crept into practice. There were touching references to his father and respect for a man who had been a strict but religious father. Luther later acknowledged that his father had been right about the value of monks, and that he had wished he had reconciled with him sooner. It was clear that Luther expressed strong support for the family and parents.

The Luther birth house on the Langen Gasse (Long Alley) is one of the world’s oldest museums. It has been recently renovated as they prepare for the 500^th anniversary of the Reformation. There are family trees, town artifacts, and displays on the silver mines where Luther’s father worked.

The highlight of the day was having the opportunity to have a worship service for our group in St. Andrews Church. We sat almost immediately under the pulpit Luther had used just three days before he had died in the city. We were able to have a picture with Luther standing in the elevated pulpit. We would have liked to hear him preach. But there was no match for the opportunity to sing “Amazing Grace” and “A Mighty Fortress” supported by the church organ. The acoustics in the room were exceptional, and it made us sound like a great choir. It was also nice to have Lynn Bulock have the opportunity to do a reading from the Ephesians 2 as part of the service.

There was time for walking or eating. We chose eating, but many took the time to enjoy the city streets.

But now it was on to Erfort and the University of Erfurt, where Luther received his bachelors and masters degree.  He was a student there from 1501 to 1511 and a monk in the monastery there from 1505-1511. It was in coming back here from visiting his family that his near-death encounter with lightening caused him to promise to become a monk. This is also the same city that both Goethe and Bach had walked.

We walked the city of Erfurt, saw the stone dorms where the students stayed, and the Augustinian Monastery Chapel where Luther was ordained. We learned that the first ten minutes of the most recent movie of Luther was shot in Erfurt. The wife of our guide was actually an extra in the movie.

It was the stained glass of the rose from the monastery chapel here that inspired the Lutheran symbol Luther later created. As a monk, they would get one meal a day and be forced to attend seven services. It was suggested that the monks would endure the services by meditating on the glass images. Later he would remember one of his favorite images—the rose.

It was also noted that the place in the chapel where Luther lay prostrate as part of his ordination was the burial place of the priest professor that had been instrumental in attacking the “heresy” of Hus who had been burned at the stake 100 years before Luther. Hus had said that they could burn the goose but in years to come a man greater than he, a much bigger swan, would come that Rome could not stop. Later, Luther was seen as the swan that Hus had predicted, and Luther embraced the name as one of the more positive labels given him.

There was less on the Reformation today and more on the early upbringing and study that made the man. Luther would return to Erfurt many times to preach as part of his ministry. The chapel today is part of a protestant cloistered nunnery. We didn’t know we had any, but if you have a sense of calling, you could come here join in.

We had a fright at the end of the tour. When dropped back at the hotel, Lorie’s carry-on was not there for us to pick up. Apparently, it had been unloaded with the bigger luggage. We were making plans on how to proceed, when her luggage and our larger one were both delivered to our room. We thanked God for this special blessing….and my goose was not cooked!

The stores are all closed on Sundays in Germany by law. We would have had to wait until Monday to purchase what was needed. There however is a wine festival going on today just five minutes from the hotel. Many of us plan to take part after dinner. Now, we can celebrate our good fortune. Enough for today.

Our Path of Luther Starts in Wittenburg

Today, August 14th, we were off to start our true Path of Luther Tour. We were up early and off at 7:30. We were all there, but the luggage took a few extra minutes. Rosey told the story of an Italian bus driver that had a unique policy for those who were late back at the bus. If you were five minutes late, you had to sing to the whole bus. If you were ten minutes late, you had to sing and dance for the rest of the bus. If you were 15 minutes late, you got to sing and dance where the bus used to be. That got the point across. If the bus left, I’m sure my dance would have been a war dance!

 

To fit the day, Rosey asked Pastor Craig to share our day’s devotion for the whole bus. We started with Luther’s Morning Prayer and then shared a quote from Martin Luther about the importance of God’s grace. It is not sins or even righteous acts that determine our faith. It is God’s grace that saves us. It is His righteousness working through the Holy Spirit in our lives to act out that righteousness in service and witness.

 

We took some time to rest and Rosey shared information about the early life of Luther. He was bright, and his father hoped that he would study to be a successful lawyer. Luther’s father was dismayed when Luther, after nearly dying from a lightening strike, prayed to St. Anne and in response to a prayer he made to her became a monk.

 

There is so much to see in Wittenberg, particularly at this time. The day we visited was the start of the preparation for the 500 year anniversary of the start of the Reformation and the nailing of the 95 Theses to the Castle Church Door. In honor of that, there are over 500 three-feet-tall Luther statues in the market center. Statues of green, blue, red, purple…etc. fill the square. They are selling them for 300 euro each to help fund the celebration. There are 500 trees being planted by congregations from around the world—one in Wittenberg and one at the church funding the tree.

 

But the highlight was our guided tour of both (Lutherhalle) Luther’s house and the Castle Church (Schlosskirche) where the 95 Theses were nailed. Luther’s house used to be a monastery that was closed once the Reformation began. It was to be the house of Luther, Katharina, and their six children. Many students also lived there and it was put to use in centuries after his passing for a variety of uses. But now, it is the largest and finest Reformation Museum in the world. You see paintings of the family, Luther, Frederick the Wise (his benefactor and protector). You see a room and table as it was in his time. You see his cloak, one of the first Bibles published and items from his life.

 

Our guide, Astrid, had lived in Lutherstadt-Wittenberg her entire life and had passion for Luther and his unique contribution. We learned of his stand for grace and the authority of the Holy Scriptures. We heard of his fight against indulgences, his preaching, and of course his marriage to the former nun, Katharina von Bora. Their love for each was touching, and Luther’s stand for the improved rights of women was amazing for the times.

 

After hearing about their love, you can understand his advice he gave to couples: “Let the wife make the husband glad to come home, and let him make her sorry to see him leave.” He obviously also had a sense of humor when he confided that the man rules the house…until the wife returned to the home. After one hot debate with his opinionated but insightful wife, he told a student, “If I were to marry again, I would marry a wife of stone, because that way she could not talk back.” Notice that this journal is being done by a mine….selective editing and memory can alter that actual events of the day.  Women are invited to write comments in response to this blog post.

 

Although we visited St. Mary’s Church where Katharina and Luther were married and Luther preached, we spent most of our time at Castle Church. The Castle Church was finished by St. Frederick the Wise and was important to the time. It is also where Luther is buried. There is a small memorial marker just below the pulpit because Luther was such a great preacher. We also saw the location where the door was that the 95 Theses was supposedly posted. It is now a bronze door because the other door burned down. We took time to have a communion with our smaller group. It was meaningful for all of us. You are seeing and walking were the Holy Spirit empowered Luther to focus the church on grace and the Gospel. We shall never forget it.

 

We then went to Leipzig to see where Luther debated Eck and preached in St. Thomas Church. We also saw how centuries later Johann Sebastian Bach served and led the St. Thomas Boys Choir in the same church. It was clear that Leipzig was far more interested in being a center of commerce and music than a leader in the Lutheran Reformation.

 

Rebounding from its years in Eastern Germany under communist rule, Leipzig is again becoming a center of economic activity and growth. We enjoyed seeing two of the most impressive churches in the center of Old Leipzig—St. Nicholas Church and St. Thomas Church.

 

St. Nicholas church was founded in 1165 and dedicated to Nicholas, the medieval patron saint of merchants and wholesalers. Even today, it is situated in the center of commerce and shopping centers that were bustling with people on a summer Saturday. Built in classical style and dedicated to the self-confidence and high cultural standards of the citizens of the city. Karen, Joe, Lynn and Kathy stayed in the city when we went to the hotel to hear a organ concert at St. Nicholas. The choir will probably be upset that I did not join them, but they will be pleased to hear how impacted those who did attend were by the music played. Karen even gave the young organist a big hug!

 

It was moving to realize that the power of prayer in this church had impacted the changes in east Germany. At a pivotal time in the changes, people met for prayer and left the church drawing 70,000 Germans in a march for peace. Out of tough times, just like with Luther, God moves his people! Let go and let God work…and we will find our way.

 

The rest of us went late to St. Thomas Church. The Boys Choir had been away and this was their first Saturday back for afternoon services. We did not get to see them perform, but we did see many of the boys after the service. To think, Bach had conducted this same choir years earlier. We saw his grave and simple but impactful church. It was here that Luther had done one of if not his first sermon.

 

It was back to the bus for a short trip to our hotel. We had time to rest, take walks, eat a great meal, and end the evening in devotion, discussion and prayer. Oh how powerful that time is. We realize how this trip connects us to our deep Christian and Lutheran heritage and to each other. We are blessed. Know that we prayed for you all—family, our faith family and for God’s people.   

Germany the home of Grace and Discrimination

My Martin Luther quote of the day as we launch into the path of Luther is: “Either sin is with you, lying on your shoulders, or it is lying on Christ, the Lamb of God. Now if it is lying on your back, you are lost; but if it is resting on Christ, you are free, and you will be saved. Now choose what you want.”

 

Luther stood for God’s grace being sufficient. He had the courage to stand for Biblical authority at a time the church under Leo X was corrupt and had lost its way. God’s Holy Spirit finds people to be the voice of God for the time. Luther was such a voice.

 

After a good morning breakfast, we all arrived on time for our morning bus tour to Potsdam. It was Friday the 13^th and the hotel emergency number was 666, but we found a way to start with joy. We launched the bus on a rousing rendition of happy birthday for Pastor Craig. Our tour guide, Rosey, sang it in German. Craig admitted he was older than 21…exponentially. There were even two tour members who actually live in Finley, Ohio…a short distance from Pemberville, the center of the universe….according to Craig. We let him believe that on his birthday.

 

As we went through central Berlin and saw monuments to the allied soldiers who fought to take Berlin, we learned that over 55 million people died as a result of the war. We feel so strongly about the death of over 5,000 soldiers in the current Gulf War against terrorism. Can you imagine the loss? Only those who lived through it can.

 

We saw many residences on our way to Potsdam, a city that originally was set aside as a favorite hunting site for Prussian kings. The summer residence castles became increasingly extravagant. The history shared was a bit mind-boggling…but we learned that remembering the names of the kings was not too hard…mostly Fredericks. But today’s Berlin residences are mostly rented. Only 13% of Berliners own their own homes or residences. Most are obviously not related to Frederick the Great!

 

We spent our first stop at Cecilienhof Palace where the Potsdam Conference with Stalin, Truman and Churchill and later Atlee. There Britain, America and the Soviet Union made the final agreement on how they would resolve the breakup of Germany. It would effect the life of Germany for 45 years. We did not get to go in, but we did walk some of the grounds and take on the shop for cards and mementoes. It was interesting to hear our Guide Benedict’s take on history. He had reservations about Truman deciding to drop nuclear weapons on Japan after giving Stalin a headsup on his weapon. Of course, Stalin’s spies were already aware of the nuclear weapon, and Truman’s announcement only accelerated their desire to finish their own. Benedict wondered whether the second bomb was necessary. Lynn reminded us that Japan had refused to surrender after the first bomb in spite of seeing the impact of the first. It remains a sensitive issue to world citizens. He was also clear that the Western allies treated Germans so much better than the Russians.

 

Then it was off for an early lunch and shopping stop in downtown Potsdam. We went into the Peter and Paul Catholic Cathedral, took in a flea market, and had time for an assortment of lunch choices and souvenirs. Oh yes, ice cream seemed to be the best reward for getting back to the bus on time. There was a nice Ice Store right next to where we were parked.

 

Then it was off for our scheduled trip to the Schloss Sanssouci, Frederick the Great’s summer palace. We learned that this gifted but conflicted man love the arts, music and philosophy. In fact, they were his first love. The Queen he was forced to marry was never allowed to come to the palace which makes sense out of why he had no offspring. He did invite other leaders and philosophers of all sorts to join in enlightened discussion. In attempt to counter his father’s view that he was the “soft egg,” he repeatedly proved himself in battle extending the power and lands of the Prussian empire. The grandeur of he palace was matched only by the uniqueness of the king’s story. He is buried there where his eleven dogs were buried. He also brought potatoes to Germany, and they put potatoes on his grave as he had requested.

 

OK, you wonder what this all has to do with the path of Luther. Absolutely nothing! But it sure was impressive. The king craved more of a simple life, and he hated the stress and traditions of Court life. He rebelled against his authoritarian and religious upbringing. Luther rebelled against the Roman Pope and Freddy the Great rebelled against his own heritage. In all of the extravagance of the palaces, you can appreciate Luther’s statement about wealth: “The Lord commonly gives riches to foolish people, to whom he gives nothing else.” Freddy may have loved to dabble in philosophy and the trappings of wealth, but he failed to find the precious pearl of faith.

 

We then left Potsdam for Checkpoint Charlie and a different time in Germany’s history.  We stopped briefly to see a long segment of the wall that remains. The museum was chaotic. You would listen to numbered explanations. You saw the growing alarm over Soviet control and the people beginning to leave in droves. You read of the Soviets using concentration camps to hold dissidents. Most did not make it out. One of the couples attending looked up relatives on both sides of their family that had been sent to camps and did not make it out. Not all the victims of this war were Jews. The dying did not stop with Hitler. Stalin and the communists in control had a murderous history.

 

In America, they talk about erecting a wall to keep people out. Here, they constructed a wall to keep people in. The chaos of the exhibit matched the chaotic and innovative nature of the response. The tunnels, gliders, cars, luggage, welding machines, kayaks…were all documented. It made you remember hearing reports of escapes as a teen. What a tribute to the attraction of freedom. May we never forget to treasure that gift others paid to secure.

 

We ended the evening at our church family celebration along with Del, Jo and Donna as we celebrated birthdays, God grace, and the challenge of understanding evil even in our saints and family of God. We walked and taxied to the Villa am Fennpfuhl which was not more than a mile away on the far side of an adjacent park. We talked about discrimination and God’s love. While two wedding were going on upstairs we had our party, devotions and dialogue together for 12 Euros less than what we would have spent with the larger group. God is so good. The food was average but the ambiance exceptional. You couldn’t beat the smiles and laughter had by all. We decided already that Westlake Lutheran is going to have to do this again. Pilgrimages are a part of our faith journey and are even more meaningful together. But right now, it is time for sleep. Forgive any errors in this journal. No time for edits.

The Path of Luther Tour Begins with Day One in Berlin

By noon, it was clear that all of the thirteen from Westlake Lutheran had found their way to the Hotel Holiday Inn City East in an area that use to be in East Berlin under communist control. The drab buildings of the time have gradually added new facades to add color and style, but the area continues to have a pre-fab look to most of the buildings. The hotel was fine and the YMT tour leaders greeted us warmly.

 

Most of our Westlake family of God had come at least a day early and were more time change adjusted than those arriving the day of tour. But we were still pleased that our rooms were ready for us to get unpacked before returning to our first bus tour of Berlin. We are all on the green bus, and we took the initiative to ask everybody to share where they were from. Many were from the Midwest and some from New England and Wyoming. But CA took the honors with our large group and others from San Jose.

 

We took a three hour-tour primarily focused on the best known historical sites in the German capital. We had stops at Brandenburg Gate and our guide Benedict, showed where the Berlin Wall had divided East and West Germany. The gate itself was in the middle of the “kill zone” where no East Germans could enter. Just on the west side of the wall is where President Reagan had declared to Gorbachev to open the wall and to “tear down that wall.” Many factors were involved, but the moving pictures of citizens taking down the wall remind us of the importance of freedom. The gates were not to keep people out; they were to keep people in.

 

We were then taken to the Reichstag building that had been the parliament building and remains so today for ceremonial events. The renovations created a large glass domes that people wait hours in line to enjoy. It shows a panorama of the whole area and the other government buildings where Chancellor Markel now is in office.

 

Our last stop was at the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church where an Evangelical Church (Lutheran) still holds services. During the week, they charge for viewing the church. We did not have the time, but did take time for pictures of the outside, our church family, and some bronze reliefs with Luther.

 

We made it back in time to have a short walk to make reservations for a very special evening dinner at Restaurant “Altes Standesamt” were we will have dinner as a small group with communion on Friday night—the one night that dinner is not provided. It will be an intimate dinner, but upstairs in the same facility will be two wedding parties. Pastor told the owner that he could be available for the service. We suggested that he provide a special LA Lutheran Blessing to both. We are already the laughing Lutherans!

 

After all, Luther had said, “If I can’t laugh in heaven, I don’t want to go there.” That’s my kind of saint! On a more serious note, we had our first devotion as a group in the bar…with German beer, of course. We talked about faith as a pilgrimage, and shared our travel and trip events to that point. God has indeed blessed us with safe travels and a great family of God to travel with.

 

The rain started about the time we were half-way through the devotions and was pouring buckets by the time we finished. We are thankful God held it off until we had returned from our tour. For dinner, the 125 attending this tour took over the hotel dining room. It was one hungry group and the buffet line seemed to never end. The food was excellent. Some of us got to meet and eat with Del, Jo and Donna. They are members of a black Lutheran church in New York. We invited them to join our special dinner on Friday night. They accepted. God is so good in extending the family as he wills.

 

Pastor Craig introduced himself to the tour pastor and may be helping at times with devotions or the service this Sunday. We’re ready for bed, but I will try to make posts when the Internet gods allow. Hope you enjoy! Pray for us as we are praying for you.  

 

By the way, if you find any spelling or grammatical errors in this tour summary, I did it for you. I knew everyone needs to feel needed…even English teachers who like to edit! We love you all. We are amazed that the land that created Luther could also launch a Hitler on the world. We have much to learn, but praise God for his Holy Spirit, the saints through the ages and His loving grace that saves us.

Happy Easter!

 

Christ is risen!

 He is risen indeed!

Alleluia, Alleluia!

 

 

ELCA Presiding Bishop's 2009 Easter Message 
 
"Jesus of Nazareth, who was crucified ... has been raised." ~ Mark 16:6

When Mary Magdalene, Mary and Salome came to the tomb, their hopes and fears intersected. They wondered aloud about the impossibly large and heavy stone that presented an obstacle to their immediate plans.  Worse, what they thought lay behind the stone was unspeakably devastating.  Jesus, who embodied the hope of God's promise in a fully human life, was not simply dead, but crucified -- executed in the most extreme humiliation, a savage mockery of the hope that had lived with him.

But the stone was gone, the grave empty.  Where they had expected to hear the silence of death's mockery, they were met by an astonishing message that the crucified one was raised from the dead, that their hope was victorious over humiliation, and that Jesus lives and is leading the way into an unexpected, surprising future with God.

Jesus lives and resurrection hope beckons. Jesus' resurrection on the third day signals that God is not finished until the life of Jesus renews the whole creation.  Sinners once haunted by the threats of judgment will live forgiven, restored, renewed and freed.  All lives broken by sin's injustices and haunted by death's terrors will be transformed by joy and transfigured into the new creation in Christ. 

You and I are witnesses of this new creation.  You have been baptized into Jesus' death and resurrection and have heard his promise.  Your lives are hidden in his and he feeds you with a foretaste of the eternal feast of joy.  He will meet you in your hope.  He claims your daily work and makes it into a holy calling.  He lives in you and sends you into the world as an ambassador of reconciliation, a testimony of God's incomparable love.  Jesus lives!  Your life in him is resurrection witness.

"This is our God; let us rejoice and be glad in his salvation!" ~ Isaiah 25:9

The Rev. Mark S. Hanson
Presiding Bishop
Evangelical Lutheran Church in America