Today, August 14th, we were off to start our true Path of Luther Tour. We were up early and off at 7:30. We were all there, but the luggage took a few extra minutes. Rosey told the story of an Italian bus driver that had a unique policy for those who were late back at the bus. If you were five minutes late, you had to sing to the whole bus. If you were ten minutes late, you had to sing and dance for the rest of the bus. If you were 15 minutes late, you got to sing and dance where the bus used to be. That got the point across. If the bus left, I’m sure my dance would have been a war dance!
To fit the day, Rosey asked Pastor Craig to share our day’s devotion for the whole bus. We started with Luther’s Morning Prayer and then shared a quote from Martin Luther about the importance of God’s grace. It is not sins or even righteous acts that determine our faith. It is God’s grace that saves us. It is His righteousness working through the Holy Spirit in our lives to act out that righteousness in service and witness.
We took some time to rest and Rosey shared information about the early life of Luther. He was bright, and his father hoped that he would study to be a successful lawyer. Luther’s father was dismayed when Luther, after nearly dying from a lightening strike, prayed to St. Anne and in response to a prayer he made to her became a monk.
There is so much to see in Wittenberg, particularly at this time. The day we visited was the start of the preparation for the 500 year anniversary of the start of the Reformation and the nailing of the 95 Theses to the Castle Church Door. In honor of that, there are over 500 three-feet-tall Luther statues in the market center. Statues of green, blue, red, purple…etc. fill the square. They are selling them for 300 euro each to help fund the celebration. There are 500 trees being planted by congregations from around the world—one in Wittenberg and one at the church funding the tree.
But the highlight was our guided tour of both (Lutherhalle) Luther’s house and the Castle Church (Schlosskirche) where the 95 Theses were nailed. Luther’s house used to be a monastery that was closed once the Reformation began. It was to be the house of Luther, Katharina, and their six children. Many students also lived there and it was put to use in centuries after his passing for a variety of uses. But now, it is the largest and finest Reformation Museum in the world. You see paintings of the family, Luther, Frederick the Wise (his benefactor and protector). You see a room and table as it was in his time. You see his cloak, one of the first Bibles published and items from his life.
Our guide, Astrid, had lived in Lutherstadt-Wittenberg her entire life and had passion for Luther and his unique contribution. We learned of his stand for grace and the authority of the Holy Scriptures. We heard of his fight against indulgences, his preaching, and of course his marriage to the former nun, Katharina von Bora. Their love for each was touching, and Luther’s stand for the improved rights of women was amazing for the times.
After hearing about their love, you can understand his advice he gave to couples: “Let the wife make the husband glad to come home, and let him make her sorry to see him leave.” He obviously also had a sense of humor when he confided that the man rules the house…until the wife returned to the home. After one hot debate with his opinionated but insightful wife, he told a student, “If I were to marry again, I would marry a wife of stone, because that way she could not talk back.” Notice that this journal is being done by a mine….selective editing and memory can alter that actual events of the day. Women are invited to write comments in response to this blog post.
Although we visited St. Mary’s Church where Katharina and Luther were married and Luther preached, we spent most of our time at Castle Church. The Castle Church was finished by St. Frederick the Wise and was important to the time. It is also where Luther is buried. There is a small memorial marker just below the pulpit because Luther was such a great preacher. We also saw the location where the door was that the 95 Theses was supposedly posted. It is now a bronze door because the other door burned down. We took time to have a communion with our smaller group. It was meaningful for all of us. You are seeing and walking were the Holy Spirit empowered Luther to focus the church on grace and the Gospel. We shall never forget it.
We then went to Leipzig to see where Luther debated Eck and preached in St. Thomas Church. We also saw how centuries later Johann Sebastian Bach served and led the St. Thomas Boys Choir in the same church. It was clear that Leipzig was far more interested in being a center of commerce and music than a leader in the Lutheran Reformation.
Rebounding from its years in Eastern Germany under communist rule, Leipzig is again becoming a center of economic activity and growth. We enjoyed seeing two of the most impressive churches in the center of Old Leipzig—St. Nicholas Church and St. Thomas Church.
St. Nicholas church was founded in 1165 and dedicated to Nicholas, the medieval patron saint of merchants and wholesalers. Even today, it is situated in the center of commerce and shopping centers that were bustling with people on a summer Saturday. Built in classical style and dedicated to the self-confidence and high cultural standards of the citizens of the city. Karen, Joe, Lynn and Kathy stayed in the city when we went to the hotel to hear a organ concert at St. Nicholas. The choir will probably be upset that I did not join them, but they will be pleased to hear how impacted those who did attend were by the music played. Karen even gave the young organist a big hug!
It was moving to realize that the power of prayer in this church had impacted the changes in east Germany. At a pivotal time in the changes, people met for prayer and left the church drawing 70,000 Germans in a march for peace. Out of tough times, just like with Luther, God moves his people! Let go and let God work…and we will find our way.
The rest of us went late to St. Thomas Church. The Boys Choir had been away and this was their first Saturday back for afternoon services. We did not get to see them perform, but we did see many of the boys after the service. To think, Bach had conducted this same choir years earlier. We saw his grave and simple but impactful church. It was here that Luther had done one of if not his first sermon.
It was back to the bus for a short trip to our hotel. We had time to rest, take walks, eat a great meal, and end the evening in devotion, discussion and prayer. Oh how powerful that time is. We realize how this trip connects us to our deep Christian and Lutheran heritage and to each other. We are blessed. Know that we prayed for you all—family, our faith family and for God’s people.
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